Can we talk about using the wrong blade on a circular saw for framing?

I keep seeing posts where people use a finish blade to cut 2x4s and call it fine. Last month at a job site in Edmonton, a guy burned through three blades in an hour on pressure treated lumber because he was using a 60 tooth blade. The wood was charred and the cuts were off by 1/8 inch. Does anyone else check blade type before starting a frame?

3 comments

3 Comments

sage_ramirez4221h agoMost Upvoted

Match the blade to the job or you're just wasting time and money. @umathompson nailed it with the flat top grind tip, that's what saves you from burning wood and blades. I always check the tooth count before I pull the trigger, it takes two seconds.

umathompson3d ago

Keep checking the blade before you start, that's just common sense. A 60 tooth blade is meant for plywood and finish work, not framing lumber. You want a 24 tooth rip blade for 2x4s and pressure treated stuff, something with a flat top grind that clears the sawdust fast. Burning through three blades in an hour means he was pushing way too hard and the teeth couldn't keep up with the material. It's not just about the blade cost, it's the time wasted fixing bad cuts.

ray_miller413d ago

Three years ago I melted a 40 tooth blade on a single pressure treated 4x4 and stood there like a cartoon character wondering where the smoke was coming from. @umathompson is right about the flat top grind, I learned that lesson when I had to stop and swap blades four times building a deck. My neighbor still brings up the burning plastic smell whenever I borrow his saw. Now I just color code my blades with sharpie marks and hope I grab the right one before the coffee kicks in.