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Almost scrapped a jacket design until I tried a bias binding on the armhole seams in rayon instead of polyester
Used to think rayon was too delicate for armhole binding on unlined jackets until I tried a 1 inch wide bias strip cut on the true bias in a 6pm panic last Thursday and now the armhole moves like it's alive has anyone else found a fabric that surprisingly works better than the standard recommendation?
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dakotawood4mo ago
The real game changer for me was using a woven silk noil for binding. It's got that slight nubby texture that grips the seam allowance just enough so you don't even need to pin it. The armhole moves smooth but the binding stays put, which is huge for unlined jackets where you see the inside finish. Did you notice any fraying issues with the rayon, or did the bias cut handle that?
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aaron8844mo ago
Honestly, you hit on something real with that fraying worry. I tried rayon on a bias cut for an unlined kimono jacket once, and it was a nightmare at the armhole edge - even with a narrow binding, the threads just kept escaping. The silk noil trick sounds brilliant though, I bet that nubby texture holds everything in place way better than the slippery stuff.
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alicecooper4mo ago
Have you tried using a really lightweight cotton lawn for binding instead of the usual poly stuff? I did a similar thing on a linen blazer last year where the armhole just felt stiff and wrong with the standard bias tape... switched to a 1 inch strip of fine cotton lawn cut on the bias and it made the whole jacket drape so much better. The fabric has just enough body to hold its shape but gives this soft, fluid movement that poly never can... sometimes the "wrong" fabric is actually the right one for the job.
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