-1

I was wrong about using a heat gun on stuck brake rotors

For years, I'd just hammer and pry on rusted rotors, figuring heat was overkill or risky. On a 2012 Silverado last Tuesday, I finally tried a heat gun on the hub area for about two minutes, not even getting it red hot. The rotor popped off with two light taps from a dead blow, saving me at least thirty minutes of fighting and swearing. I learned that a little controlled heat breaks the rust bond way better than brute force alone. Has anyone else found a specific temp or time that works best without hurting the bearing grease?

3 comments

3 Comments

evan_wilson1815d ago

Heat guns are a crutch for bad technique. A proper penetrating oil soak overnight and a few solid hammer strikes on the rotor hat have never failed me. Introducing heat near a sealed bearing is asking for trouble, even if you don't see the damage right away. It's an unnecessary risk that can dry out the grease and lead to a premature failure down the road.

jana_fox5015d ago

Oh man, that's the trick right there. I did the same thing on my old Civic last fall. I just kept the heat gun moving around the center hub for maybe three minutes, until a drop of water sizzled off it. That was enough. It came loose with a tap, and I didn't have to worry about cooking the wheel bearing at all.

lane.cameron2d ago

Wait, so you're saying the water drop test is the real key? @jana_fox50, how do you even get a drop of water on there while you're holding the heat gun? That sounds like you need three hands. I always worry I'll heat it too long, but having a clear sign like that to stop makes total sense.